4.54ctw Natural Burmese Ruby and Diamond Mystery-Set Ring in 18kt White Gold

Thirty-six natural Burmese rubies, princess cut, sit in three rows in an invisible setting, also called a mystery or illusion setting. The stones meet edge to edge with no metal showing between them, giving an unbroken field of rich red.

Invisible setting is one of the most labor-intensive techniques in all of jewelry making. Each ruby is cut with grooves along its base so it can slide onto a hidden gold framework, and every stone must be matched and fitted by hand.

A bar of pavé diamonds runs along one edge of the rubies, catching light against the polished 18kt white gold band. The same design is also in the collection in Burmese blue sapphire.

The rubies are heated only, the standard trade practice for ruby. No glass filling and no flux filling.

Natural Burmese rubies, 4.54 carats total weight (36 stones). Diamonds, 0.16 carats total weight (15 stones). 18kt white gold, 9.56 grams.

Caring for invisibly set jewelry: because the stones are held by hidden grooves rather than prongs, an invisibly set piece needs a little extra care. Avoid hard knocks, and take it off for sports, gardening, heavy lifting or other physical work. Store it on its own so other jewelry cannot rub against it, and have it checked by a jeweler from time to time. Clean it with warm water, mild soap and a soft brush, not an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Read our guide to invisible settings.

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