A Guide to Choosing Metals
The metal is the foundation of your piece. It sets the color, how well the piece wears, how it feels on your hand, and part of the price. Every piece we make is available in 14k gold, 18k gold or platinum, so here is how they compare.
14k gold
This is 58% pure gold, mixed with other metals for strength. It is the most popular choice in the United States, and for good reason. It is harder than 18k, resists scratches and bending, and costs less. It is an excellent choice for an everyday ring or bracelet.
18k gold
This is 75% pure gold. It has a richer, deeper color, and many people feel it is the more luxurious of the two golds. Because it contains more gold, it is a little softer than 14k and will show wear sooner. It is a good choice for pendants, earrings and dressier rings that do not take daily knocks.
Platinum
Platinum is naturally white and about 95% pure in jewelry. It is the densest and heaviest of the three, so a platinum piece has a noticeable weight on the hand. It does not need plating, and it rarely causes skin reactions, which makes it a good choice if you have sensitive skin. Over time it develops a soft satin patina instead of losing metal. It costs the most, and its strength makes it the best for holding a valuable center stone in a ring.
Gold color: white, yellow or rose
Gold comes in three colors, each made by changing the metals mixed with the gold.
- Yellow gold is the classic warm color. It shows off colored gemstones and suits warm skin tones.
- White gold has a bright, silvery look that lets diamonds stand out. It is coated with a thin layer of rhodium, which wears off with time and can be re-applied by a jeweler every year or two.
- Rose gold has a warm pink color from the copper in it. It is quite durable, and the color does not fade.
Caring for white gold and platinum
White gold and platinum look alike when new, but they age differently. Knowing the difference helps you choose, and helps you keep the piece looking its best.
White gold
- The rhodium coating wears. White gold is naturally a pale, slightly warm color. The bright white you see is a thin plating of rhodium. With daily wear it thins, most often on the underside of a ring and along the edges, and the warmer tone shows through.
- Re-plating restores it. A jeweler cleans the piece, polishes out light scratches and applies a fresh coat of rhodium. This usually takes a day or two and is needed every year or two for a ring worn daily. Pendants and earrings can go much longer.
- Polishing removes a little metal. Each polish takes off a very small amount of gold along with the scratch, so we polish only when needed.
Platinum
- No plating to wear off. Platinum is white all the way through, so there is nothing to re-apply.
- Scratches move the metal; they do not remove it. A scratch pushes platinum aside instead of cutting it away. Over time the surface develops a soft, even, satin finish called a patina. Many people love it and feel it gives the piece character.
- The patina is optional. If you prefer the mirror shine of a new piece, a jeweler can re-polish platinum to bring it back. Because the metal is moved and not lost, polishing takes away very little. Some people keep the patina, and some polish once a year. Either is correct.
Everyday care for both
- Clean at home with warm water, a few drops of mild dish soap and a soft toothbrush, then rinse and dry with a soft cloth.
- Remove rings for chlorine pools, hot tubs, cleaning products and heavy work. Chlorine can damage the gold alloy in white gold.
- Store pieces separately so harder stones do not scratch them.
- Have prongs and settings checked once a year. We are happy to clean, check and polish any piece we have made, and to re-plate white gold when it is time.
What to think about for each type of piece
- Rings take the most wear. 14k gold or platinum is the safest choice for a ring worn every day, especially an engagement ring that holds a center stone.
- Bracelets are knocked against desks, tables and doors all day. 14k gold is the practical choice, because it holds up best to constant contact.
- Pendants hang away from most contact, so they see the least wear. 18k gold is a good choice if you want the richest color.
- Earrings are also lightly worn. 14k or 18k both work well. If your ears are sensitive, ask us about platinum or a higher gold content for the posts.
How to decide
Ask yourself four questions. How often will it be worn? Will it hold an expensive stone? Do you have sensitive skin? And which color do you prefer next to your stone? If you are unsure, book a video consultation and we will go through the choices with you.